Showing posts with label Kalash. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kalash. Show all posts

Sunday, December 16, 2012

Chitrimas: Another Type of Christmas for the Kalasha

Every year when the world is still gearing up to celebrate Christmas, a unique and different winter festival almost synonymous to Christmas has already started in the three remote villages of Chitral in the northern Pakistan.


Chitrimas or Chamois is the winter festival of Kalash people living in the three villages of Rumbur, Bunboret and Birir. As you may already know Kalash are a unique people with no parallel found anywhere in the world except neighbouring Afghanistan. The festival is celebrated for two weeks from 9-22 December. However three special days are announced each year, 15-17 December this year, for the height of the festivities.

The Kalash people or the Kalasha live in unique houses made of local stone and wood which are stacked on top of one another against the hills so the roof of the lower house is the veranda of the upper. They make their living with staple crops like lentils and wheat and goat herding. Life is very traditional and, like in many in this part of the world, the division between men and their women is great. Family life, cattle herding and harvesting form their main livelihood with the occasional distraction of a festival or two. Women move into a Bashleni house during birthing and also when they are menstruating. Many aspects of the society are both communal and segregated and, typically, marriages are by arrangement.


Their festivals ae also unique spread over different times of the year which are celebrated wearing colourful beads over black embroidered gowns by the women folk. One of the most important festivals celebrated by the Kalasha is the Chitrimas or Chamois welcome the new year. 

The Chamois festival is celebrated without using any musical instruments in the Rumbur and Bumborate villages, whereas residents of Birir village do use the musical instruments. Chamois festival is celebrated after the Kalash finish all their fieldwork and store all the sources of their basic needs. By this time of the year cheese, fruit and vegetables and grains are properly stored. 

By this time, it is time for the Kalasha new year to set in. In fact, With the celebration of the festival, the Kalash month of “chawmos mastruk” sets in. Chamois is also called “ghona chawmos yat” which means, the great memorial Chamois festival.

The festival is considered to be a very sacred festival. After all it is the start of the New Year. It is the last festival of the year. It is the time when the entire family sacrifice and eat meat, it is celebrated by feasting, drinking of wine and merry making. In fact the Kalasha bey celebrating this festival thank their gods for the bounties bestowed on them during the year and pray for the same during the coming new year.

Before the proceedings of the festival start, the entire population remains indoor. It is celebrated by feasting and merry making until the elders, who sit on a hill top, watching the sun reaching the orbit, declare the advent of the New Year. Children go up to the mountain, where they divide into boys and girls, and respectively make a big bonfire. After singing songs for some time the fire will be extinguished and then the two groups will compete with each other for the size of the smoke that rises up in the air. Then they all go down the mountain and return to the village singing " songs of Sarazari" carrying branches cut down from the mountain top. The elders will be waiting chanting songs in the village.

Read more:
Kalash Festivals [PTDC]

If you like Jaho Jalal, please follow us on Facebook

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Mary Loosemore's Photo Travelogue: The Fairyland of Kafir Kalash

In my previous post based on the photo travelogue of Mary Loosemore, I covered the journey of the 11-member Hindu Kush adventure group, that also included Mary Loosemore, from Peshawar, Pakistan to Dir and Ayun through the Lowari Pass. Today I will cover the group's adventure, as photographed by Mary, into the fascinating world of the Kalash Fairyland - the Kalash Valley.


A Kalash woman dressed in traditional black robe ornamented with multicoloured beads and headdress

Kalash Valley consists of three sub valleys as shown in the map below. The Mary Loosemore's group selected the Rumbur Valley to explore the hidden world of the Kalash people. On 4 October 2006, they reached Balanguru for a night stay with the Kalasha.


From south of Chitral, a track turns to the left from village of Ayun on Kunar river to the Kalash Valley, where these strange yet attractive people live in three main villages and surrounding areas of Rukmu, Mumret and Biriu (called Rambur, Bumburet and Birir in local Kalasha language).

Map showing the route to three Kalash Valleys from Ayun

Bumburet is the largest and the most picturesque valley of the Kafirs, is 40 kilometres from Chitral and is connected by a jeepable road. Birir and Rambur are located at a distance of 34 and 32 kilometres respectively from Chitral. The present population of the Kafir Kalash is approximately 6,000. 

Road to Rumbur Valley - Photo: verdanega / Panoramio

The villages are situated on the southern face of the hillside about 50-100 meters above the river. This protects them from floods in summer, and at the same time helps to get sunshine during the winter. The snow that lies on the bottom of the ravine and in the shade do not melt until spring. 


A typical Kalasha village on the mountain terraces in the Rumbur Valley








In summer to avoid the sun, some people live in a second house built on the opposite side of the river. The Kalash Valleys have extensive forests of Holly-Oak and Himalayan cedar. Walnut, Apricot, Apple, Pear and Mulberry trees abound near the villages.


Pakistan flag flutters near a house in the Balanguru village - Rumbur Kalash Valley

An almost three days stay in the Rumbur Valley, moving from one village to another, provided Mar's group a deep insight to the life, culture, traditions and lifestyle of the Kalash people. Following are the photos taken in the Balanguru village of the Rumbur valley.


A Kakasha child with shinning green eyes - typical of Kalash
 

 A Kalash women laughs as 'strange men' crack jokes
 Benedict, one of the group member, shows photographs taken of the Kalash children on his camera
 Lunch at Saifiullah Jan's new house, the local host at Balanguru village
 Kalash children en route to their school
 A walk through Balanguru village
  Kalash girls en route to their school 
 Mary had her hair plaited the Kalasha style by small Kalash girl
 A Kalasha family
 Kalash girl hand weaving for tying the hair
 Style girl at Balanguru
 Kalasha girls group photo

Those who visit the Kalash Valley in early summers, they can attend Kalash festivals held in the early summers. The two main important festivals are Joshi and Utchal. In the late summers and winters, two more festivals Phool (20th-25th September) and Chowas (18th to 21st December) can be attended, though the latter is very difficult to attend owing to losure of the Lowari Pass. However, if one can make it to Chitral by air, then from Chitral to Kalash Valley by local jeeps is possible.


Joshi or Chilimjusht: This festival is held from 14th to 15th May to mark spring when girls pick the first flowers of the season. Traditional dancing, visiting each other, exchanging flowers, milk and milk products are its features. 

Utchal: This colorful event is celebrated in mid-July to mark the harvest of wheat and barley. The two- day celebrations feature dances, singing and hosting feasts.


 Pre-dinner cricket match: Hindu Kush XI vs Kalash XI!! [above/below]

Dinner being prepared at Balanguru village rest house
A hearty dinner and smiles
Balanguru village as seen from Safiullah Jan's guest house

After Balanguru, the group visited the village of Shakanande. The following photographs were taken during their visit to Shakanande:

Mary Loosemore at the top of the tree line, passing over the coll between Shakanande valley and the Rumbur valley
 Shakanande Village, Rumbur Valley
 Mary crossing a stream in the Shakanande village
A boy entering the house through a carved door - specialty of the area

The last village the group visited was that of Palaga. Here in under are some of the photos taken at Palaga Kalash village:

 Daughter of the host
 Annie and Amanda during a hike near Palaga village - eating locally grown grapes
 Dinner being prepared at Palaga
  Mary, Annie and Amanda - Dinner is over
 The group en mass at camp fire night [ Saifullah, Mary, Annie, Amanda, Rob, Annie, Benedict, Thelma ]
 Hikers resting for a quick snap
 View from the Palaga rest house
Relaxing at charpoys - native beds with four legs at Palaga
 Kalash family 

Grandmother with her niece

After a three days long stay in the Kalash Valley, the Hindu Kush adventure group moved to Chitral for a day's stop, before resuming their journey onward in the Hindu Kush range to Gilgit, through the Shandur Pass. My next posts will cover the stop over to Chitral and travel to Gilgit.

Read more about Kalash and their festivals:
Kalash Spring Festivals (Pakistanpaedia)

All photos above, except where specifically mentioned, are owned by Mary Loosemore, as shared on Flickr.

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Chitramas - the Kalash Winter Festival

Although Christmas has some resemblance with the word Chitramas, but the latter is celebrated in a very remote area of the world in the Chitral Valley of Pakistan. Chitramas or Chaumos is the winter festival of the Kafir Kalash people living in three valleys of Bumburate, Birir and Rumbur in the Chitral. The festival is presently being celebrated by these people of unknown origin, which will terminate on 22 December. Chitramas festival is considered the most important festivals of Kalash people from their spiritual point of view.

The Chitramas festivities are held to mark the end of the previous year’s harvest and fieldwork. Thereafter, the month of Chawmos Mastruk of the New Year dawns. The festival thus is a sort of saying goodbye to the previous year and welcoming the new year. The festivities include dancing, lively music and sacrificing goats. The Kalash slaughter their goats, mostly one goat per adult man or woman, on the concluding day of the festival. The festival also gains importance for the reason that the Kalash believe that god Balimain visits its subjects during the festival. Besides the many festivities, food sacrifices are offered at the clans' Jeshtak shrines, dedicated to the ancestors.

However, some men and women volunteer to seclude themselves from the others and remain confined in a cattle house for the duration of the week long festival. This tradition of seclusion is called Autik, which simply means “to get secluded.” These people eat the meat of the slaughtered goats, drink and pass time in merrymaking. While these people are celebrating in seclusion, care is taken that no outsiders sees them, lest they get polluted.

The Kalash children go up to the mountain, where they divide into boys and girls, and respectively make a big bonfire. After singing songs for some time the fire will be extinguished and then the two groups will compete with each other for the size of the smoke that rises up in the air. Then they all go down the mountain and return to the village singing " songs of Sarazari" carrying branches cut down from the mountain top. The elders will be waiting chanting songs in the village.

The festivities don’t get mar by the heavy snowfall at this time of the year in the Chitral valley. However, in case the sun shines, it adds colours and joy to the Kalash people. If you happen to be visiting Pakistan next year, do plan to visit Chitral and join the Kalash people in their festival of Chitramas – which at least by its name won’t let you feel missing the Christmas celebrations.

Related Reading: The Kalash Valley – where fairies dance and sing (Pakistanpaedia)
If you like Jaho Jalal, please follow us on Facebook